Best Feeder Insects for Crested Geckos (Ranked)

Best Feeder Insects for Crested Geckos, Ranked

Crested geckos primarily eat commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) — a powdered food mixed with water that provides complete nutrition. But live insect supplementation 1-2 times per week provides enrichment, additional protein, and the mental stimulation of hunting live prey. Here are the best insect options ranked specifically for cresties.

#1: Small Silkworms

Fat: 1% | Chitin: None | Moisture: 83%

Silkworms are the ideal crested gecko insect supplement. Their ultra-low fat does not overload an already calorie-dense CGD diet. Their completely soft body is easy for cresties' relatively weak jaws to consume. Their slow wriggling is manageable for these small arboreal geckos. Offer 2-3 small silkworms in a ledge dish 1-2x per week.

#2: BSFL

Calcium: 9,340 mg/kg | No dusting needed

BSFL provide concentrated natural calcium alongside the calcium in quality CGD formulas. 3-5 BSFL per feeding, 1x per week in a ledge-mounted dish. Their sedentary nature works well for dish feeding — the concentrated wriggling attracts attention.

#3: Small Discoid Roach Nymphs

Protein: 20% | Fat: 7%

The smallest discoid roach nymphs provide protein supplementation for cresties that accept them. Not all crested geckos will eat roaches — some are strictly CGD eaters. Try tong-feeding a single small nymph to test interest.

#4: Small Hornworms

Moisture: 85%

Occasional hydration treat. Only use the smallest available hornworms — crested geckos have small mouths. 1 small hornworm per feeding, 1x per week maximum.

Insects to Avoid for Crested Geckos

• Mealworms: Tough chitin, poor Ca:P, too hard for cresties to chew
• Superworms: Too large, too tough, can bite — not for cresties
• Crickets: Escape into arboreal enclosures, chirp, bite — use roaches instead
• Waxworms: 25% fat is excessive for cresties that already eat calorie-dense CGD

Key Principles

• CGD is the foundation — insects are the supplement, not the replacement
• 1-2x per week is sufficient for insect supplementation
• Small sizes only — crested geckos have smaller mouths than leopard geckos or bearded dragons
• Ledge dish feeding works best for arboreal cresties — mount at climbing height

Gut-Loading and Dusting: Getting the Most Out of Feeder Insects

An insect is only as nutritious as what it last ate. Gut-loading — feeding your feeder insects a nutrient-dense diet for 24-48 hours before offering them — passes those nutrients on to your crested gecko. BSFL and discoid roaches gut-load especially well since they thrive on the same calcium-and-vitamin-rich foods you'd want passed along.

Dusting matters less here than it does for other reptiles: BSFL are already calcium-rich enough that most keepers skip dusting them entirely, and CGD already supplies complete calcium and vitamin D3. If you do offer silkworms, discoid roach nymphs, or hornworms, a light dusting with a calcium supplement before feeding is still good practice — just don't treat it as a substitute for a healthy CGD base.

Hydration Matters More Than Any Single Insect

Crested geckos need 60-80% humidity and a misted enclosure to stay properly hydrated — most of their water intake comes from licking droplets off leaves and enclosure walls after misting, not from their food. Small hornworms (85% moisture) and silkworms (83% moisture) can supplement hydration, but they don't replace a properly misted enclosure. If your crestie is dehydrated (sunken eyes, loose skin, lethargy), fix the misting schedule first — don't just add more high-moisture insects.

— Matt, Founder, All Angles Creatures