Best Feeder Insects for Bearded Dragons (Ranked)

The Best Feeder Insects for Bearded Dragons, Ranked

Bearded dragons are omnivores that need a rotating variety of feeder insects — especially during their juvenile growth phase, when insects should make up 70-80% of their diet. But not all feeders are created equal. Some deliver outstanding nutrition, while others are better suited as occasional treats. Some are convenient and clean, while others are smelly nightmares.

This ranking evaluates feeder insects based on nutritional value, convenience, cost-effectiveness, and overall suitability as a staple or supplemental feeder for bearded dragons. We sell discoid roaches, but we're going to be honest about every feeder on this list — trust is more important than a sale.

#1: Discoid Roaches (or Dubia Roaches)

Protein: ~20% | Fat: ~7% | Moisture: ~65%

Roaches take the top spot for good reason. Discoid roaches and dubia roaches offer the best combination of high protein, moderate fat, excellent gut-load retention, and unmatched convenience. They're quiet, odorless, can't climb or fly, and live for months with minimal care. For Florida keepers, discoid roaches are the go-to since dubias are banned.

Best for: Daily staple feeding at every life stage. Available in sizes from tiny nymphs for baby beardies to large adults for full-grown dragons.

Downsides: Higher unit cost than crickets (though less waste makes them comparable per feeding). Slightly slower breeding rate than dubias if you're running a colony.

#2: Silkworms

Protein: ~9% | Fat: ~1% | Moisture: ~83%

Silkworms are a premium feeder insect with an exceptional nutritional profile for bearded dragons. They're extremely low in fat, high in moisture (great for hydration), and contain serrapeptase — an enzyme that may support healthy digestion and immune function. Their soft bodies are easy for beardies of all ages to digest, and most dragons find them irresistible.

Best for: Supplemental feeding 2-3 times per week. Excellent for picky eaters, recovering animals, or dragons that need extra hydration.

Downsides: Expensive. Short shelf life — they need mulberry leaves or commercial silkworm chow and don't store well. Availability can be inconsistent depending on season.

#3: Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL / Calciworms / Nutrigrubs)

Protein: ~17% | Fat: ~14% | Calcium: ~934mg/100g

BSFL have the highest natural calcium content of any common feeder insect — so high that they don't necessarily need calcium dusting. This makes them uniquely valuable for bearded dragons, which are prone to metabolic bone disease. They're also reasonably high in protein and easy to store (just keep them cool to slow pupation).

Best for: Regular supplemental feeding, especially for juvenile beardies during rapid growth. A fantastic calcium-boost feeder to rotate alongside roaches.

Downsides: Higher fat content than roaches. Small size limits their utility for adult dragons — you'd need a lot of them to make a full meal. Some dragons don't find them as stimulating as moving prey since BSFL are relatively sedentary.

#4: Hornworms (Manduca sexta)

Protein: ~9% | Fat: ~3% | Moisture: ~85%

Hornworms are the crowd-pleasers of the feeder insect world. Bearded dragons go absolutely crazy for them — the bright green color and wriggling movement trigger an intense feeding response. They're extremely high in moisture, making them excellent for hydrating dragons that don't drink much water. They also have decent calcium content for a soft-bodied feeder.

Best for: Treat and hydration supplement, 2-3 times per week. Excellent for enticing picky eaters or sick dragons back to food. Great for adding variety.

Downsides: Cannot be a staple — too much moisture and not enough protein for daily use. They grow incredibly fast (from small to huge in days) and must be used quickly. Higher cost per feeding than most other options.

#5: Superworms (Zophobas morio)

Protein: ~20% | Fat: ~18% | Moisture: ~58%

Superworms are a hearty, protein-rich feeder that bearded dragons generally love. They're larger than mealworms, more active (which stimulates feeding response), and have a good protein content. They're also easy to store at room temperature and have a decent shelf life.

Best for: Occasional supplemental feeding for adult beardies, 1-2 times per week. Good for adding variety and fat to the diet of underweight or breeding dragons.

Downsides: High fat content — nearly double that of roaches. Should not be a staple feeder due to obesity risk. Tough chitin exoskeleton can be harder to digest than softer feeders. Not recommended for juvenile bearded dragons under 6 months.

#6: Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor)

Protein: ~20% | Fat: ~13% | Moisture: ~62%

Mealworms are widely available, cheap, and easy to store in the refrigerator for weeks. They're a familiar feeder that most keepers have used at some point. Protein content is decent, though fat is higher than ideal for a staple.

Best for: Occasional treat for adult bearded dragons only. Convenient backup feeder when other options aren't available.

Downsides: Not recommended for juvenile bearded dragons. Their tough chitin exoskeleton poses an impaction risk for young dragons with developing digestive systems. High fat content makes them a poor staple choice even for adults. Relatively sedentary, which doesn't stimulate hunting behavior as well as more active feeders.

#7: Crickets (Acheta domesticus)

Protein: ~15-21% | Fat: ~6% | Moisture: ~73%

Crickets have been the default feeder insect for decades, and they're nutritionally adequate. Protein content is reasonable (though variable), fat is low, and they're widely available at every pet store. For many keepers, crickets were their first feeder insect.

Best for: Budget-conscious keepers who don't mind the maintenance, or as an emergency feeder when preferred options are unavailable.

Downsides: Where to start? They smell terrible within days. They chirp constantly at night. They die quickly — expect 30-50% die-off within a week. They escape easily and can infest your home. They carry parasites. They will bite your bearded dragon if left uneaten in the enclosure, especially at night. They are, in almost every practical way, the most annoying feeder insect to keep.

#8: Waxworms (Galleria mellonella)

Protein: ~14% | Fat: ~25% | Moisture: ~58%

Waxworms are the junk food of the feeder insect world. Bearded dragons absolutely love them — in fact, that's the problem. Waxworms are so fatty and palatable that some dragons become "addicted" and refuse to eat other, healthier feeders after being offered waxworms too frequently.

Best for: Very occasional treat — once a week or less. Useful for enticing sick or recovering dragons to eat, or for adding weight to underweight animals under veterinary guidance.

Downsides: Extremely high fat (25%), low protein, and genuinely addictive to many bearded dragons. Overfeeding waxworms causes obesity and can create long-term feeding behavior problems. Never use as a staple or regular feeder.

Building the Ideal Feeding Rotation

The best approach for bearded dragon nutrition is a rotation of multiple feeder types rather than relying on any single insect. Here's a practical weekly schedule for an adult beardie:

• 3-4 feedings: Discoid roaches (staple)
• 1-2 feedings: BSFL or silkworms (calcium and variety)
• 1 feeding: Hornworms (hydration and enrichment)
• Occasional treat: Superworms or waxworms (once a week or less)

For juveniles, increase feeding frequency (2-3 sessions daily) and focus on smaller roach nymphs, BSFL, and small silkworms. Avoid mealworms and superworms until the dragon is at least 6 months old.

Browse our bearded dragon feeder collection for everything your beardie needs, from small nymphs for babies to large adults for full-grown dragons.

— Matt, Founder, All Angles Creatures