Care Guides
Leopard Gecko Enclosure Setup: Complete Beginner Guide
Leopard Gecko Enclosure Setup: Complete Guide
Leopard geckos are one of the easiest reptiles to set up — but getting the basics right from the start prevents health issues down the road. Here is everything you need.
Setup Checklist
| Component | Details |
|---|---|
| Tank size | 20 gallon minimum. 40 gallon recommended for adults. |
| Warm hide | 88-92°F — use undertank heat mat with thermostat |
| Cool hide | 72-77°F — unheated side of enclosure |
| Moist hide | Damp sphagnum moss inside a hide — helps with shedding |
| Substrate | Paper towel (beginners) or tile. Avoid loose sand for juveniles. |
| Water dish | Shallow, always available |
| Calcium dish | Small dish of plain calcium powder — leos lick it voluntarily |
| Thermometer | Digital with probe at warm hide level |
Feeding Station
Keep feeders ready: discoid roach nymphs (protein staple), silkworms (low-fat), BSFL (calcium — no dusting), plus calcium + D3 powder and multivitamin.
Read our Complete Leopard Gecko Diet Guide for detailed feeding schedules.
UVB
Leopard geckos are crepuscular (active at dawn/dusk) and traditionally kept without UVB. However, UVB is increasingly recommended by veterinarians for improved calcium metabolism and overall health. A low-output UVB (shade dweller or 5.0) is sufficient — not the intense T5 HO used for bearded dragons.
Common Mistakes
- Heat lamp instead of heat mat: Leos are belly-heat animals. Use undertank heat mat with thermostat — not overhead basking lamps.
- Loose sand substrate: Impaction risk for juveniles. Use paper towel or tile until adult.
- No moist hide: Causes stuck shed. Always provide a humid hide with damp sphagnum.
- Too cold: If warm hide is below 85°F, appetite decreases and digestion slows.
— Matt, Founder, All Angles Creatures
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